I ask Martin about some of the basic errors most everyday surfers make and he immediately zones in on two areas. “Seventy per cent of surfers struggle with effective speed generation and re-centreing after a manoeuvre.” He explains the latter in part by showing a couple of clips. In both instances the surfers successfully ride out of big finishing moves by ensuring the chest is centred over the front knee as they exit the move. Dunn also points out that there is whole faculty of training that falls under the category of ‘good decision making’. I marvel at his analysis skills as he identifies seven critical decisions that need to be made just in the act of catching a wave. I see the merit in such compartmentalised thinking when I realise I may be getting about three of the steps wrong.

Connor O'Leary making it rain with his precise rail work. Photo: Bosko

Much of Martin’s dialogue is really about making you more aware of what is actually going on when you negotiate a line-up, catch a wave and ride it. It’s not so much about right or wrong but learning to think critically about what you do in the water. “The unexamined life is not worth living,” said Socrates, and the dictum can certainly be applied to surfing. It’s worth noting that Dunn’s techniques are not all about winning contests (although he can help with that from board riders level to the WCT) but rather they are designed to amplify the fun you have in the water.

Does he give advice on boards? “Only if it’s really clear and obviously holding someone back,” indicates Martin. “I learnt years ago that I can’t be an expert on everything.”

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What about the argument that being a better surfer is simply about putting more time in the water? Dunn agrees that motivation is important, but debunks the heavy surf load theory by suggesting that if you simply put more time in the water without consciously thinking about what you are doing then you will hit performance plateaus. He indicates that often he advises members of his elite squad (particularly if they are preserving energy for an upcoming heat) to go out and catch just half a dozen waves, but to be totally aware and focused on their intentions.

He identifies seven critical decisions that need to be made just in the act of catching a wave. I see the merit in such compartmentalised thinking when I realise I may be getting about three of the steps wrong ...

By the time our meeting wraps up I’ve become much more open to the idea that my surfing can actually be improved by applying some of Martin’s techniques. As we shake hands, Martin assures me that he will send me my clip with a detailed breakdown of ways to improve. “Just a few minor changes can have someone surfing a lot better and enjoying their surfing more,” Martin reiterates, before we go our separate ways.

Minutes later I’m spying a left bank and contemplating a quick surf to test out some of the pointers Martin has given me. I load the brain up with a couple of the catch phrases Martin suggested and paddle out. Initially the adjustments feel a little awkward and I fall off in the attempt to introduce them. Then, on one wave it all clicks. Just a slight tilt of the head and suddenly instead of drawing the same lazy lines I’m tapping into a different sensation and it honestly feels great. I’m not afraid to say I’ll be studying the detailed report card closely when Martin sends it via email. Why miss out on something that might make my surfing experience a whole lot better.